Maker Tutorial: Tunisian Crochet Ribbing as Accent

 

As anyone who regularly reads this blog knows, I am a big lover of tunisian crochet (and you can read several of my former blog posts on the subject right here). 

In this maker tutorial (a form of which was published a few years ago in a crochet e-zine), I’d like to introduce a different approach to utilizing tunisian crochet: using it in just a portion of a crochet design. There are times when I see how tunisian crochet can be beautifully incorporated into a design, namely as an edging treatment. It’s a great way for those crafters who may be new to the technique to gain some valuable skills practice while at the same time working up an attractive project.

I particularly like tunisian crochet as an alternative crochet ribbing technique. Tunisian crochet knit and purl stitches behave differently than either their knit ribbing or other crochet ribbing counterparts (the latter two approaches provide stretch; the former does not), but the look of ribbing created with these stitches mimics knit ribbing (at least on the right side of the fabric). Tunisian knit and purl stitches provide a wonderful counterpoint to crochet lace created with a traditional crochet hook. My Seasonal Mist Poncho design highlights that contrast beautifully, and I’m going to use the poncho’s design as my backdrop to demonstrate how to work tunisian crochet knit and purl stitches as an edging to lace that’s already been completed with a traditional crochet hook.

Copied and printed directly from the
design's pattern, symbols created and
copyright owned by yours truly.

Initially, for those who like to use charts, to the right you will find the individual tunisian crochet edging stitches’ symbols. You will notice each stitch is comprised of two symbols, the top symbol which is common to all three. This is because tunisian crochet rows consist of a forward and backward “pass” on the same side of the fabric. The bottom symbol represents the forward pass; the top symbol represents the backward pass.

Now let’s see how this looks when creating the poncho’s  bottom edging.   

1.       The initial bottom edging rows, using a traditional crochet hook, have been completed and the project is on the rs with the tunisian crochet hook in the first loop (which acts as the first stitch).

      2.     Begin working the forward pass of the first row (here in a different color for viewing ease) which in tunisian crochet is usually all tunisian simple stitch. Note all the stitches remain on the hook.

      

     3.       The completed forward pass of the first row.

4.    Complete the backward pass of the first row, which is simply yarn over the hook, through the first lp on the hook, and then *yarn over the hook and through the next two loops on the hook, repeting from * across the remainder of the row. The photo at right shows the completed backward pass of the first row, and I have picked up the lighter colorway for the second row's forward pass so you can better see what the stitches will look like. For the tunisian purl stitch, pull the working yarn to the front of the work and to the right of the stitch to be worked, then place the hook from right to left in the next front vertical bar.

       5.      Yarn over the hook, and pull through the first loop on the hook.

      

      6.       Here is the first completed purl stitch. Note that the yarn is again in the front of the work, to the right of the next purl stitch to be worked.

  

      

      7.       The first two purl stitches are completed, and the first knit stitch is about to be worked. Note that the working yarn is now in the back of the work, and the hook has been inserted from front to back between the vertical bars.

                                        


                 8.       Here is the first completed knit stitch.

      9.  The forward pass of the first row of tunisian crochet knit 2, purl 2. Even at this early stage, you can see the pattern forming, with the purl stitches’ yarn in front visibly displayed by the lighter colored yarn.

     10.  The requisite number of tunisian crochet rows 
     have been completed, and now it is time to bind off. 
     Again, I am using a contrasting color 
     yarn for viewing ease.

      11.   Work each stitch keeping in the purl 2, knit 2 pattern, but instead of pulling through only one loop on the hook, pull through both loops on the hook during the bind off row, so that there is always only one loop on the hook. Here, I am about to bind off the first purl stitch in the row.

12.   Approximately two-thirds of the bind-off row is 

completed here; note that there is only one loop on 

the hook.

13.   Here is the completed tunisian crochet edging. You can see the lovely rib pattern on the right side of the fabric.

       

       14.   And, finally, here is what it looks like on the edging of the sample poncho. The right side of the fabric is at the left, and the back of the fabric is shown folded over. And if you are rather observant, you will note that I photographed the poncho on my model with the wrong side of the fabric showing. It's actually a fun twist; while I personally really love the ribbing on the right side, there's nothing stopping makers from wearing this any which way they choose!

Maker Tutorial: Bag Linings for the Anti-Sewer

My Buds Bag, one of several I
have designed that function
much better with a lining.

Here's a tutorial I wrote for ILikeCrochet.com several years back. I have reprinted it in my A La Maison 2 e-book, but just recently focused on the fact that I have not put it up here on the blog. Well, I am now taking care of that oversight. 

    **************************************************************

I am the anti-sewer. Really. Yet, I appreciate the structural as well as aesthetic value of a well-made and well-placed seam. Additionally, I love to design, make, and use bags, many of which benefit from a fabric lining.

So, for all of you crafty folk out there in to the same anti-sewing camp as me, this quick tutorial on how to create a bag lining will, I hope, speak your language. If you’ve ever constructed a crocheted garment and seamed it with a back stitch or whip stitch, or put together a motif-based blanket, you’ve already got most of the bag-lining basics in your crafty techniques toolbox.

Initially, lining your crochet bag project serves a few important purposes: (1) it will provide additional support and safeguards to the seams in your crochet fabric; (2) depending on the stitch pattern of your crochet fabric, it will allow you the ability to carry small things in your bag without fear of losing them; and (3) it will provide additional aesthetic value to your handiwork.

In the Buds Bag design used for illustration purposes, I used store-bought fabric. Don’t, however, limit yourself to fabric bolts. Bag linings are a great way to re-use/upcycle all kinds of fabric bits around your house: an old fabric pillow covering, silk, cotton and/or polyester blouses that perhaps have seen better days or no longer fit, pajamas (especially silk or polyester), and of course old jeans (assuming they contain a section big enough for a lining that is hole-free).

Once you’ve identified your fabric source and have completed the crocheted portion of your bag, creating the lining is fairly straightforward. I am using an easy rectangular-shaped bag as my example – if you have a more complicated bag shape then some further effort may be necessary.

1.  Cut your fabric to your bag’s dimensions, adding an additional ¾” in width and ½” in length. The additional width will allow for ¼” seams on each side plus some additional ease to allow for your crochet fabric to slightly stretch, as well as a generous ½” seam allowance at the top. The fabric lining’s job is to reinforce your crochet bag’s structure, but the crochet fabric is always responsible for the shape of the bag. Items should rest within the shape of the crochet fabric with the lining filling all of the bag’s shape with no gaps. While I measured my fabric with ruler and pencil, you can also place your bag on the fabric and trace its outline, allowing for the above-mentioned additional width and length.

Above: measuring fabric; at right:

the cut fabric. Note the bottom is 

actually the fabric’s fold line.

2. Once your lining is cut, turn wrong side out and pin your side seams ¼” from each side edge.

3. Alright, here’s where you’ll need to start sewing – however, think of this as seaming two motifs together, because the principle is basically the same.  Thread your needle with thread and knot the end; then, start at the bottom of one side and work a back stitch seam, following the line of your pins. 

4. Once you have seamed both sides of your fabric, turn the lining right side out, turn your crochet bag fabric wrong side out, and slip your lining over the crochet fabric.

 5. Now, you have just one more bit of sewing to go: the top edge seam. Turn the top of your lining fabric in, between the wrong side of the lining and the crochet bag, aligning it with one of the top rows of your crochet bag. For the Buds Bag, I lined the fabric up with the bottom of the reverse single crochet edging row.

6. Thread your needle and seam your lining to the crochet fabric with a stitch whose mechanics are similar to a whip stitch – place your needle from back to front of the crochet row and then back to front of the lining fabric, keeping as close to the top of the lining fabric edge as possible.

7. Once you remove the straight pins, you’ll have a seam that is surprisingly invisible.

8. Then turn your bag right side out, add any handles and/or closing notions necessary, and then admire your tremendous handiwork.

I hope this little tutorial will be helpful. Now get out those hooks and whip up some fun bags, complete with nifty linings, all for your very self.

Tri-Color Work in Tunisian Crochet

So we're all starting to work up our cowls in the current Cowl-o-Rama (and there's still plenty of time to join us!). Some of us are working up Etched Ice cowls, one participant has already completed a La Coeur Cowl (it really is a quick crochet), and a few participants are working on a few different three-color tunisian crochet cowl designs of mine. Since this is a form of colorwork I really enjoy, I thought I'd provide here a form of the visual tutorial I wrote for ILikeCrochet.com to coincide with their publishing the Mixed Bag Cowl design last year.

Working with color in design, or art, or when crafting is universally appealing – just look at the explosion of long color run yarns like Noro. This is an area where a multi-disciplinary approach really comes in handy: my painting experience has taught me colors come alive and reveal personality only in context with other colors. As on the painting canvas, so too in creating crochet fabric - there is something infinitely satisfying about watching colors take form and reveal themselves in context in a crochet project.

While there are several ways to inject color when crocheting, one of the easiest ways is to work with multiple colors at once. In tunisian crochet (and the same technique can be applied when crocheting with a traditional short hook), the principle behind using three different yarns at once is quite simple: work an entire row in yarn A, switch to yarn B at the end of the row without fastening off the first color, work the next row in yarn B through the end, attach yarn C without fastening off yarn B and work the next row in yarn C. At the end of each subsequent row, drop the yarn you’re currently using and pick up the next yarn that’s waiting.  You’ll carry the yarns neatly up each side of the work without fastening off, so there’s no pesky yarn tails to weave into your newly created colorful crochet fabric. Additionally, working with three yarn colors at once is a great way to use up stash in intriguing and fresh ways. Don’t be afraid to try different color combinations or, even, of using different yarn weights in the same project.  

A note: this tutorial assumes the crocheter has knowledge of tunisian crochet utilizing one color. The tutorial picks up at the backward pass of the initial row in tunisian crochet:

1.  Work the backward pass of the pattern’s designated

row in yarn A until there are two loops remaining 

on the hook.

2.  Drop yarn A without fastening off and attach 

yarn B by making a loop over the hook with it 

and complete the row.

3.  Work the forward pass of the next row with yarn B 

through completion of the last stitch. 

4.   Drop yarn B without fastening off and attach yarn C 

by looping it over the hook and work the backward pass 

until there are two loops remaining on the hook.

5.  At this point you will have three different yarns live 

in the back of your work – the one you’re currently 

using and one at each end of the work.

6.  From this point on, you’ll change yarns at the end 

of any pass by dropping the yarn you’re using and 

picking up the yarn that’s waiting. It’s that simple. 

While not a requirement, when changing yarns at

either end of a row I like to ensure that the new 

working yarn is beneath the yarn being dropped. 

In this way, the dropped yarn gets carried up the 

side of the work in a neat manner.

7.   Here is how the back of the fabric looks. 

Notice how the yarn is neatly carried up along 

each side of the fabric. Since this cowl will be 

seamed prior to the addition of edgings 

worked in the round, these sides will 

become hidden from view.

I hope this gives you inspiration to stash dive and make a cowl with three colors - of course, right along with us in the Cowl-o-Rama!